10/08/21

Meet the designer

The designer and artist Ulrika Runius have been strengthening our design studio for a year now. The autumn collection that will be released on August 19 is her first own collection! We asked her to describe her creative process and share her sources of inspiration. Keep on reading and get to know one of the people behind all the beautiful jewellery and get a sneak peek at several of the autumn news.

Ulrika Runius began her creative career in the music industry and slipped over to fashion creation via studies at Beckmans School of Design. Most recently, she came from a job at H&M. Music plays an important role in her creative process and Ulrika has designed stage clothes for several different artists, but discovered that she was drawn to the accessories rather than the garments.

-Fashion is exciting because it reflects time, but jewellery lasts longer and you wear it wear it closest to the body. There is a very strong symbolism in that, she says.

Ulrika has jewellery design in her DNA. Her grandfather was a silversmith but also worked as an engineer and when she was 15, she inherited his tools. She made jewellery at home in her room as a teen and for a while she has also had a place with a jeweller.

-It feels good that I have fulfilled a dream that my grandfather had, and extra special to be able to do it with the same tools that he has held in his hands, she states.

She sees the assignment as a designer at a jewellery company like Edblad as an honour.

-There is a very nice foundation here with the stylish and timeless classics that are Edblad's DNA. It is my job to manage it but also to make sure that you can see my hand and my design language in the collections, she explains.

3D printing gives a sense of volume

Other sources of inspiration for Ulrika are sculpture and architecture. -They are both art forms that are based on spatiality and relate to the human body. I think it is interesting to try to translate large scales into smaller forms that you wear, she explains.

Currently Ulrika is in the middle of the creative work with the collection for autumn and winter 2022, a process she describes as very "hands on", where she gathers inspiration by tearing out pictures from magazines and copying pictures and texts from books. During the actual design work, Ulrika works with threads, wires and beads and experiments with prototypes in clay to get a feel for them in her fingers. Then she 3D-prints them so she can try them out to get an idea of the volume and how different shape elements relate to each other.

Small works of art with unique stories

Much of Ulrika's expression is about reflecting her present. She puts a lot of thought behind the purpose and expression of each piece of jewellery and each object carries its own little story. When asked if there are any parts of the autumn collection that mean extra to her, she mentions the series Sander, Redondo, Rhythm and Vigor.

Sander, a small drop-shaped pendant that is completely flat on the back, is inspired by a tiny stone that Ulrika found in Greece. Here, the shape of the stone was as important as the necklace chain penetrating it seamlessly to create a sense of minimalism.

The Redondo series mixes minimalism in its shape and minimalism in volume and brings to mind glossy helium balloons.

The stripped-down series Rhythm combines rigid parts with movement. The piece flows like sound waves through the body. It is a tribute to the live music that Ulrika longs to experience when you, finally, can go to a concert again.

Design for the future

One of Ulrika's personal favourites from this autumn's collection is the cute pendant Vigor, which is this year's Helping hand jewellery and is dedicated to Dandelion children, an organisation helping children and families in need. The jewellery will be released on September 9! It is a favourite partly because the little happy elephant stands for confidence and hope and partly because it is inspired by the collection of elephants and elephant jewellery that she has inherited from her grandmother.

The playful little elephant also contains a connection to Ulrika's creative design philosophy, to design with future generations in mind and to create in a sustainable process. For her, it means partly to create jewellery that is timeless in its design and can live a long time and partly to choose materials with thought.

-I hope that the year we have behind us can lead to new, more conscious ways to collaborate, create - and live, she concludes.